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Imperial Cities

Fès, Marrakech, Meknes and Rabat are known as the Imperial Cities, each having been the country’s capital at some time during its history.

Rabat

Rabat, the present capital of Morocco, was founded in the 12th century. It is a town of trees and flowers, and many monumental gateways, including the Gate of the Ambassadors and the Oudaias Kasbah Gate. There is a good selection of hotels and numerous pavement cafes. The nearby Mamora forest and the many beaches are popular tourist attractions, particularly during the summer.
Other attractions include Tour Hassan, the grandiose minaret of a vast, uncompleted 12th-century mosque; the Mohammed V Mausoleum, an outstanding example of traditional Moroccan architecture; the Royal Palace; the Chellah, with superb monuments, delightful gardens and Roman ruins; the Oudaias; the Archaeological Museum; the National Museum of Handicrafts and the antique Moorish cafe. The battlements surrounding the old town, and part of the new city, date from the mid-12th century. Also worth a visit is Salé, Rabat’s twin city, at the opposite side of the river, believed to have been founded in the 11th century.

Meknes

Meknes is protected by 25km (16 miles) of battlements, flanked by towers and bastions. The city reflects the power and the constructive genius of King Moulay Ismail, a contemporary of Louis XIV, who ruled the country for 55 years. The Michlifen and Djebel Habri are two ski resorts above Meknes. The city boasts a wonderful souk (market) and the old town is listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

Excursions

About 30km (19 miles) from Meknes, the Roman ruins at Volubilis are also on UNESCO’s World Heritage list. Excavations and ruins dating back to the third century can be visited for a small admission fee and there is also an interesting archaeological museum.

Fès

Fès is the most ancient and impressive of the imperial cities. Built in the eighth century, it has more history and mystery than anywhere else in Morocco. Officially encompassing two cities – El Bali and Jadid – Fès is famous for the Nejjarine Square and Fountain, the Er Rsif and Andalous (Al-Andalus) mosques, the Royal Palace, the Kasbah and Karaouine (Al-Qarawiyin) University, which is older than Oxford University. The Dar Bath Museum is also worth a visit. The old part of the city – Fès El Bali – still retains the magical, bustling atmosphere of an ancient time and it is centered around the two famous mosques of Al-Qarawiyin and Al-Andalus. It is a huge maze of winding streets and covered bazaars where, if one is not careful, it is easy to get lost (it is therefore a good idea to hire an official guide). There are magnificent examples of Hispano-Arabic architecture as well as numerous opportunities to see traditional craftspeople at work. The medina (market) in Fès El Bali is one of the largest in the world and is also on UNESCO’s World Heritage list. Here, one can buy almost anything. It is particularly good for carpets, rugs and ornate metalwork. As in all of Morocco, the market business is conducted in a leisurely, although deadly earnest way, with the accompaniment of endless glasses of sweet mint tea. Fès is, perhaps, one of the most fascinating cities anywhere in the Middle East or north Africa.
The valley of Ouergha to the north is famed for its souks and Morocco’s most celebrated gathering of riders, which is said to have been attended by Pope Sylvester II prior to his accession in AD 999 and resulted in him introducing Arab mathematics to Europe. Other attractions are the Karaouine (Al-Qarawiyin) Mosque and Mesbahai Medersa, an old school, remarkable for its traditional architecture and late afternoon auctions in the Kissaria, the shopping area.

Marrakech

Founded in 1062, Marrakech was once the capital of an empire that stretched from Toledo to Senegal. Called the ‘Pink City’ because of the color of the local earth used in its construction, it is a city of labyrinthine alleyways, secluded palaces, museums, mosques and markets. The city’s gardens are still supplied with water from 11th-century underground irrigation canals. The Djemaa el-Fna (Place of the Dead), the city square, comes alive after nightfall; thronged with dancers, fortune-tellers, musicians, acrobats, storytellers and snake charmers, it is an exciting and occasionally bewildering place – an exotic spectacle that is striking and endlessly surprising. Koutoubia, the 12th-century mosque, is as tall as the towers of Nôtre Dame and dominates the Marrakech skyline. The Ben Youssef Medersa, with its mosaics, marbles and carved woodwork, is the largest theological site in the Mahgreb. It forms part of Marrakech’s UNESCO-listed medina, now a World Heritage site, crammed with architectural masterpieces. Other interesting places to see are the sumptuous Bahia Palace; the beautiful Saadian Tombs housing the remains of rulers of the Saadian Dynasty; the Dar Sisaid Museum; the Menara and Aquedal gardens and the famed camel market.

Excursions

An hour’s drive from Marrakech is Oukaimeden, Morocco’s best ski resort. This trip can be combined with a visit to Ourika (which has a donkey market) and Asni. The latter is an excellent base for visiting Jebel Toubkal, Morocco’s highest mountain, set amidst spectacular scenery.

The Coast

The Mediterranean coast between Tangier and Nador has a string of creeks, bays, sheltered beaches and cliffs along the shore, ideal for swimming, boating and fishing. Al Hoceima, Mdiq, Taifor and Smir-Restinga are all new resorts, offering a wide variety of accommodation, from luxury hotels to well-situated bungalows.
The Atlantic coast is often rocky, with some long stretches of fine sand and calm bays.

Tangier

Tangier, gateway to Africa, is the country’s most cosmopolitan town, a place where – surviving from the days when Tangier was a free port – the street signs are in three languages; in fact, no less than 12 nations have occupied the city at one time or another since the fifth century. The city has a picturesque and active market called the Grand Socco. Other places worth visiting include the Mendoubia Gardens; the Sidi Bounabib Mosque; the Moulay Ismail Mosque; the Forbes Museum; and the Merinid College.

Excursions

Excursions in the region include visits to the mountain town of Chechaouen, the fishing village of Asilah and the Caves of Hercules at Cape Spartel. About 40km (25 miles) southeast of Tangier, the city of Tetouan has a reputation for minor crime. However, the town is beautifully located on a hillside with a view over the Mediterranean and its medina (market) in the old part is a listed UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Casablanca

Also on the Atlantic coast is the newer city of Casablanca. Founded at the beginning of the century, it is the country’s principal commercial town, the second-largest town in Africa and one of the continent’s biggest ports. Here stands the Hassan II Mosque, the world’s largest mosque with one of the world’s tallest minarets.

Excursions

Just south of Casablanca, in a picturesque location along the banks of the Oum er-Rbia, is Azemmour, with its abundance of violet bougainvillea and its purple ramparts (which visitors may walk along after agreeing a fee for the guardian to unlock them). Slightly further south is El Jadida which has a remarkable Portuguese fortress and one of the most beautiful beaches on the Atlantic coast. It also boasts the Church of Assumption, an enormous underground Cistern and the ‘Gate on the Sea’ and fortifications.

Elsewhere

Traveling further south along the coast brings visitors to Safi, a fishing port with a Portuguese palace, pottery shops and a medina.
Agadir is a modern holiday city with superb beaches, excellent resort hotels and self-catering accommodation, which offers all types of sports activities. From here, there are excursions to the towns of Taroudant, Tiznit, Tafraout, Goulimine and, of course, the famous Marrakech. Essaouira is a laid-back fishing port whose narrow streets are lined with whitewashed, blue-shuttered houses. Mohammedia is another popular resort in this region.

The South

The South is a region rich in folklore and spectacular scenery, dotted with small oasis villages and quiet towns surrounded by orchards and olive groves.

Tafilalt

Erfoud is the center for excursions to the oasis of Tafilalt, kept green and fertile by the underground waters of the Ziz and the Rheris. Er Rachidia is the provincial capital of the Tafilalt region, and has a bustling market on the main square. On the road between Er Rachidia and Erfoud are the ‘Blue Springs’ at Meski and the natural amphitheater of Cirque de Jaffar near Midelt. Tinerhir, once a garrison of the French Foreign Legion, is worth visiting for its kasbahs. Near Tinerhir is the outstanding scenery of the Drâa Valley (famous for its red-earthern kasbahs) and the magnificent Todra gorge.

The Deep South

This former French garrison can be reached via a beautifully scenic route from Marrakech over the Tizi n’Tichka pass. Ouarzazate is a good starting point for tours to the deep south. Of particular interest is the kasbah of Taourirt, the Museum of Arts and Crafts and the Carpet Weavers’ Co-operative Shop. About 30km (19 miles) from Ouarzazate lies the exotic and UNESCO World-Heritage-listed Ksar of Aït-Ben-Haddou. The Ksar is a traditional pre-Saharan habitat and consists of a group of earthen buildings surrounded by high walls. Aït-Ben-Haddou has featured in several films, including Lawrence of Arabia and The Sheltering Sky. The magnificent ochre-colored cliffs and rock formations of the Dadès Gorge, one of Morocco’s highlights, lie approximately 100km (63 miles) east of Ouarzazate. Nearby is the pleasant village of Boumalne du Dadès which has several hotels and guest houses offering accommodation.

Zagora Region

From the top of the Djebel Zagora, there is a spectacular view of the Draa Valley and desert. The oasis of Tamergroute, 18km (11 miles) away from Zagora, has a library containing some of the earliest Arabic manuscripts, written nine centuries ago on gazelle skins. They are on display at the Zaouia Nasseria. Nearby, Mhamid and its palm groves are at the gates of the great sand desert.

Elsewhere

South of Agadir, the pink kasbahs of Tafraoute perch on spurs of rock, their façades often painted with strange designs in white or ochre. Goulimine is the site of the Blue Men’s souk, held each weekend. A camel market also takes place once a week, on Saturday.