Azerbaijan
Meetings tend to be formal in Azerbaijan. Business cards are generally exchanged during initial meetings, with one side of the card in Azeri and the other in English (or Russian). Azeri business people almost always offer visitors tea and sweets. Azeris tend to be very polite, but may appear to foreigners as vague and noncommittal about specifics in business transactions. Business is most usually conducted in Azerbaijani, Turkish or Russian languages, so an interpreter is usually a good idea.
Although Azerbaijan has a low rate of violent crime, incidents of street crime and assaults on foreigners are increasing. Security concerns in Baku are like those associated with any large city. Over the past year, however, there has been a steady increase in the number of reported crimes targeting Westerners. Most notably, some of these crimes have been perpetrated by local police officers. In several instances, local police officers detained Westerners in the early morning hours demanding to see their documentation. If the Westerner was unable to produce the solicited documents, the police would seize the Westerner's money. In other cases, the police targeted bars and clubs frequented by foreigners in the downtown and Fountain Square areas of Baku. Claiming that prostitution and drug trafficking were taking place, the police rounded up foreign women and threatened to take them to the police station unless they paid a bribe. Fortunately, all of these incidents have been non-violent and, in the last few months, the local government has arrested several of the corrupt police officers. Again, carrying proper documentation and practicing good judgment are the easiest means of avoiding such situations.
Street crime is highest in large crowds or very isolated areas. There have been reports that criminal gangs use children to seek out and hug Westerners in order to ascertain where they are keeping their valuables. Once this is known, a signal is passed and an older child or teenager retrieves the valuable from the victim. This generally happens while the victim is still preoccupied with the smaller child.
Crime is also a concern in tourist areas in Baku, such as Fountain Square and the Maiden Tower. Some of the shopping districts, such as Ganjlik, are also areas where thieves operate. Most the restaurants, shops and bars that Westerners visit are located in these areas, which have been the sites of repeated muggings. Most of these have occurred when there was only one victim present. Always travel around these areas in a group, especially at night.
A good rule of thumb is to only carry what you absolutely need. Whenever possible, keep cash and identification in your front pants pockets or in concealed undergarment passport pouches. There is no need to carry credit cards, as Baku is a predominantly cash-and-carry community. Replacing lost items such as credit cards, driver's licenses and other papers while in Baku is difficult. Purses should be tucked into the crook of an arm, and hugged close to the body. If carrying a bag with a shoulder strap, do not allow the bag to hang freely and keep a hand over the clasp. If possible, do not carry a purse at all. The general rule to follow when you know you will be walking on the street is to never carry anything that you cannot afford to lose. This extends to jewelry. To avoid injury, favor small stud-type earrings over large hoop earrings. Necklaces should be kept under a blouse or sweater so they are not visible. Watches should also be kept under a coat or shirt sleeve when walking on the street. All expensive jewelry should be removed prior to going to a market or other crowded areas.
As in many parts of the world, vehicle thefts occur in Baku. Most of the thefts occur in the early morning hours. Cars parked on the street in the downtown area are at the highest risk but it should be noted that car thefts are reported citywide. It is best to park in a secure parking facility or where there is constant pedestrian traffic.
Most hotels are still state-run and standards of hygiene, service and catering remain primitive at best. Security in hotels is often a problem and basic security features such as dead bolt locks, door viewers and smoke alarms are sometimes lacking.
Most U.S. citizens visiting Baku stay in the Europe, Hyatt, Radisson or City Mansion hotels. These hotels meet Western standards and offer a wide range of amenities. The management staffs at these hotels also have a relationship with Western embassies, and are aware of concerns for travelers' safety and well-being. Basic security features such as deadbolt locks, peepholes and smoke alarms are sometimes lacking in other hotels. Do not leave money, jewelry, passports or valuables in any unoccupied room in any hotel. Also be sure to note where the stairwells and fire extinguishers are located in the case of an emergency and familiarize yourself with hotel staff.
International direct dialing is available to Baku. The country code is 994. Other parts of the republic may only be contacted using operator-connected calls. All outgoing international calls from Azerbaijan, including calls to CIS republics, must be made through the operator. Limited e-mail via a local Internet system is available. The postal system is functional, but not secure. The U.S. courier firm DHL has an office in Baku.
Electricity is at 220 volts AC, 50Hz.
220 volts AC, 50Hz.
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Azerbaijani food combines Turkish and central Asian elements. Rising pollution levels have given rise to alarm about falling fish stocks, but sturgeon is still widely available at a price. Baku has a reasonable selection of Western style restaurants which have opened recently. In the chai khanas (tea houses), men linger for hours drinking sweet black tea out of tiny glasses. A special place in the cuisine belongs to salads prepared from fresh vegetables. Salads are served together with main course. The national cuisine includes more than 30 kinds of soups.
Things to know: Although the majority
of Azeris are nominally Shia Muslims, alcohol is widely available. National specialties:
• The much celebrated plov is a delicious, spicy specialty made with pine nuts, vegetables and dried fruit, in addition to rice and mutton; certain types of plov use chicken instead of mutton and include chestnuts.
• Grilled kebabs of various kinds are popular, including lyulya kebab made from spiced, minced lamb pressed onto skewers.
• Meals often start with rich, heavy soups: piti is a mutton soup bulked out with chickpeas and slowly cooked in individual earthenware pots in the oven and served in the same pots; dogva is a sharp, yogurt and spinach-based soup containing rice and meatballs.
• Sturgeon is served both smoked and fresh.
• Caviar has traditionally been fished from the Caspian Sea.
• Kutab pastries are stuffed with spinach or pumpkin and are similar to Turkish birekas.
• Kutum Lavangy is stuffed fish with cherries, walnuts and raisins.
• Dolma is minced mutton flesh with onions.
• Badimjan Dolmasi is mutton served with plenty of aubergine and tomatoes, basil, sour cream and butter.National drinks:
• Wines and brandies are produced locally.
• Sherbets are popular soft drinks made of sugar, lemon, saffron, seeds of mint and basil and other fruit.
• Tea is often served accompanied by various jams such as quince, fig, apricot, white cherry and plum. Sometimes dried leaves or flowers of savory, clove, cardamom and other spices are added to tea. Tea made of cinnamon (darchin) and ginger is popular. Sometimes rose water is added.
Legal drinking age: No minimum age. Tipping:
Expected by waiters and doormen in restaurants – sometimes in advance to ensure service. It is advisable to make enquiries about ’going rates’ before entering into negotiations with taxi drivers, market stallholders, etc. It is also customary to tip car park supervisors.Nightlife
Several restaurants, late-night bars and nightclubs have opened in Baku in the last few years, catering largely for the foreign business community and wealthy local business people. Popular bars include Chaplin, Finnegan’s and Lancaster Gate. Concerts, theater, opera and ballet are a source of local pride and very popular.
